How to Grow Melon

PLANT TYPE: Annual
SCIENTIFIC NAME: Cucumis melo
LIGHT: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Well-Drained, Sandy
PH RANGE: 6.0 - 7.0
MOISTURE/WATERING: Average
MATURITY IN DAYS: 70 - 80
KNOWN PESTS: Cucumber beetles
KNOWN DISEASES: Leaf spots and mildew





OVERVIEW:
Melons and watermelons are full of vitamin C, and are among the most prized in the vegetable garden. Weather is very important. The warmer it is, the sweeter the melons will be. Plant melons in late spring to early summer, when the soil is very warm. It will help to use plenty of compost or manure. Like cucumbers, melons like company so plant several seeds per hill and thin to 3 or 4.

PROPAGATION / SOWING OF MELONS:
For best results start watermelon seed indoors, 4 weeks prior to the last frost. Sow 2-3 seeds 1/2” deep in 2¼” Jiffy strips. Provide a warm soil temperature, 24-27°C (75-80°F) and even moisture. Thin to one seedling per pot. Transplant watermelon plants outdoors after all risk of frost in rows 4-6’ apart with 36”(melons) - 48”(watermelon) between plants. For direct seeding, wait till all risk of frost has passed and soil has warmed. Sow melon seed in rows and space properly or sow into mounded 1’x2’ hills, leaving 2 watermelon plants per hill, with hills spaced at 4-6’. Melons and watermelons require a bright, warm growing season of about 3 months duration. row covers or black mulch are highly recommended for extending growing season, to ensure maturity and to increase yield.

COMPANION PLANTING OF MELONS:
Corn.

CARE & GROWING OF MELONS:
Full sun and sheltered location with a soil pH of 6.0-7.0. Melons are moderate feeders which require plenty of compost added to the soil. Regular feedings during the season with a well balanced fertilizer or compost tea are highly beneficial to watermelons.

HARVESTING OF MELONS:
Muskmelons - when the melon easily slips off the stem. Watermelon - when the curly tendril that intersects the main stem with the stem on the fruit has completely dried and turned brown and the underside of the melon, where it sits on the ground, is yellow.

How to Grow Gourd

PLANT TYPE: Annual
SCIENTIFIC NAME: Various
LIGHT: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Well-drained, high organic matter
pH RANGE: 6.5 - 7.5
MOISTURE/WATERING: Keep moist, not waterlogged
MATURITY IN DAYS: Possible To first fall frost





OVERVIEW:
Gourds are a fun vegetable to grow. Gourds will grow and spread like pumpkins and need plenty of room to spread. Smaller gourds can be trained to climb up a trellis. Gourd plants can be grown by almost everyone. When gourds are mature they will dry and have a pretty hard shell making them perfect for crafts. Many gardeners recommend harvesting gourds after the first frost in the fall. Gourds are great for crafts and many other decorative items.

PROPAGATION / SOWING OF GOURDS:
The small miniature gourd can be direct seeded after all risk of frost. It is advisable to start larger gourds, siphon and bottles indoors about 3 weeks before transplanting. Provide a warm soil temperature of 27°C (80°F) and a constant, even moisture. Individual peat pots are ideal for gourds since the plant roots will not have to be disturbed at the time of transplanting. Plant gourds outside after all danger of frost in rows, hills or on a sturdy trellis. Rows should be spaced about 5½’ apart with plants 45” apart. Fertilizing with a starter fertilizer at time of transplanting is recommended.

COMPANION PLANTING OF GOURDS:
Celery, corn, melon, onion, radish.

CARE & GROWING OF GOURDS:
Gourds require full sun, a pH of 6.5-7.5 and good soil moisture, particularly during fruit set. Gourds are moderate to heavy feeders, they require plenty of compost and well rotted manure worked into the soil prior to planting.

How to Grow Swiss Shard

PLANT TYPE: Annual
SCIENTIFIC NAME: Beta vulgaris var cicla
LIGHT: Full sun but will tolerate light shade
SOIL TYPE: Medium-rich, well-drained, deep sandy loam
pH RANGE: 6.2 - 7.0
MOISTURE/WATERING: Average
MATURITY IN DAYS: Starting at 35 days
KNOWN PESTS: Leaf miner
KNOWN DISEASES: N/A





OVERVIEW:
Swiss chard is one of the easiest vegetables to grow, it will keep growing right through the winter in mild climates. Swiss chard is a good source of beta-carotene. Also known as chard, these greens come from a variety of beet grown for its stems and leaves, not the roots.

Unlike many greens, the stalks of Swiss chard are completely edible - many people consider it the best part of the plant. Unless the swiss chard is young, the stalks should be separated from the leaves and cooked a little longer.

PROPAGATION / SOWING OF SWISS CHARD:
Swiss Chard thrives in cool weather, so plant as soon as the soil can be worked, or at soil temperatures of 10-29°C (50-85°F). For a fall crop, plant again in late August or early September. Sow swiss chard thinly, about ½” deep. Thin plants to 1-3 inches apart, in rows 12-24 inches apart.

CARE & GROWING OF SWISS CHARD:
Swiss chard prefer full sun, but will tolerate light shade, with a soil pH of 6.2-7.0. Moderate feeder, requires a fertile, well cultivated soil. Enrich soil with plenty of compost and well rotted manure. Needs even moisture for good growth. Drought and warm temperatures will cause premature bolting. For all season production, provide regular feedings with a well balanced fertilizer or compost tea.

HARVESTING OF SWISS CHARD:
The tender, flavourful vitamin-rich swiss chard leaves may be cut as soon as they are big enough to eat. Harvested regularly, Swiss Chard will continue to produce fresh greens.

How to Grow Potato

PLANT TYPE: Annual
SCIENTIFIC NAME: Solanum tuberosum
LIGHT: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Well-drained with moderate organic matter
pH RANGE: 5.5 - 6.5
MOISTURE/WATERING: Uniform moisture, especially while tubers are developing
MATURITY IN DAYS: 90 - 110
KNOWN PESTS: Potato beetles
KNOWN DISEASES: Blight



OVERVIEW:
There is a large selection of potato varieties available. Potatoes vary considerably in shape, size, colour, cooking and eating qualities. Check with your local garden shop to see which potatoes are available for your soil (test if required). If you are not sure what type of potato you prefer, it is worth trying a few to see which best suits your soil, and your tastes.

I have had good success adding a small amount of rough sawdust into the soil to retain moisture (good if your soil is heavy or dries out quickly). Make sure you don't use sawdust(chips) from a wood species know to carry toxic oils, like cedar or treated wood. To avoid introducing pests and diseases - plant good quality, certified seed potatoes.

PROPAGATION / SOWING:
Potatoes are tolerant of cool soil and frost, potatoes can be planted in late spring. Remove potato tubers from storage and warm to a temperature of 50-60°F, to enhance sprout formation. Small potato tubers (golf ball size) may be planted whole. Larger tubers can be cut into pieces weighing about 2 ounces each having at least 1-3 eyes. Seed pieces can be planted immediately after cutting, but will generally sprout and show better resistance to decay if, after cutting, are left in a cool, moist room with good ventilation for 3 days. Sow potato seed pieces 3-4 inches deep. Leave 10-12” between plants in rows 2-3 feet apart. Closer plantings can result in better yields, but with smaller potatoes. Do not plant potato tubers directly from cold storage.

COMPANION PLANTING:
Potatoes do well with bush bean, cabbage family, corn, parsnip, peas.

CARE & GROWING:
Grow potatoes in full sun with a soil pH of 5.5-6.5. Potatoes are heavy feeders which require deep fertile soil with good drainage. Mineral soils are best. Apply plentiful amounts of compost and well rotted manure. Fresh manure will promote development of scab organism. Lime should also be avoided at planting time. Maintain even moisture as interruptions in moisture will cause irregular growth spurts resulting in rough, knobby, malformed or cracked tubers. Hill plants when they are 1 foot tall, by hoeing up 6-8” of soil around the plant.

HARVESTING:
Early potatoes can be dug when tubers reach a useable size. This is often 2-5 weeks after flowering. Potatoes for storage crops should be left in the ground until light frosts or natural decline cause the tops to wither.

How to Grow Pumpkin

PLANT TYPE: Annual
SCIENTIFIC NAME: Cucurbita spp.
LIGHT: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Well-drained, high organic matter
pH RANGE: 5.5 - 6.5
MOISTURE/WATERING: Keep evenly moist, not waterlogged
MATURITY IN DAYS: 90 - 120
KNOWN PESTS: Striped and spotted cucumber beetles
KNOWN DISEASES: Powdery mildew


OVERVIEW:
No vegetable is more exciting to a child than the pumpkin. If you want to spark a childs interest in gardening, encourage them with their very own pumpkin patch. Theirs to nuture, care for and "weed". They may fuss a little when it is time to work, but when they see that pumpkin start to grow and then carve it at Halloween - they'll be hooked. Pumpkins grow quickly and can reach very large sizes - perfect for the kids. Of course, many adults get the same thrill from growing pumpkins.

Pumpkins benefit from a rich soil and a sunny location. For perfect pumpkins on Halloween place a good thick layer of straw underneath each pumpkin - this will keep moisture away from the pumpkin skin and produce better colour. Pumpkin is used in cooking for pies, cakes, bread and so on.

PROPAGATION / SOWING OF PUMPKINS:
Plant pumpkins after all danger of frost has past and when the soil has warmed to 21°C (70°F). For early plantings, use floating row covers to raise soil temperature, increase early growth and protect tender pumpkin plants from wind injury. Sow pumpkins 1” deep, 6” apart in rows 48-72” apart. Thin pumpkin plants to 24-36” apart. Plant vining pumpkins at the edge of the garden to prevent the plants from over-taking the entire site. Space bush type pumpkins 24” apart in rows 36-48” apart.

COMPANION PLANTING:
Pumpkins do well with celery, corn, onion, radish.

CARE & GROWING PUMPKINS:
Pumpkins prefer full sun and a soil pH of 5.5-6.5. Pumpkins are moderate feeders; prefer a rich loamy soil of good fertility and moisture retention. Mix plenty of organic matter into soil. Even and sufficient soil moisture is essential. Pumpkins benefit from mild feedings with a fertilizer high in phosphorous to initiate fruit formation.

HARVESTING PUMPKINS:
Harvest pumpkins before a killing frost or when pumpkins are deep orange in colour. Simply cut pumpkins from the vine leaving 4-6” of stem attached to the fruit. Store in a cool, dry area.

How to Grow Leek

PLANT TYPE: Annual
SCIENTIFIC NAME: Allium porrum
LIGHT: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Rich, well-drained, deep sandy loam
pH RANGE: 6.0 - 6.5
MOISTURE/WATERING: Keep moist, not waterlogged, until well established
MATURITY IN DAYS: 75 -85
KNOWN PESTS: Rarely troubled by pests.





OVERVIEW:
Soil should be prepared for leeks by adding large amounts of compost and manure. Leeks can be planted in late summer and harvested in winter and early spring, or leek can be planted indoors three to four weeks before the last killing spring frost.

Keep the soil moist during early stages of leek development; but as the leek mature, it is best to keep the soil somewhat dry. Leeks add subtle flavor to soups and enhance the taste of many dishes.

PROPAGATION / SOWING OF LEEK:
Start leek indoors 8-10 weeks prior to the last frost. Sow leek seeds ¼” deep and provide a soil temperature of 24°C (75°F) with even moisture. Thin and transplant young leek seedlings once they reach 2” tall into 2¼” Jiffy pots. After all risk of frost, leek seedlings may be set in a trench about 5” deep, filling in enough soil to cover the roots. Space leek plants 6” apart in rows 24” apart. Gradually fill the trenches in during the season. Planting this way blanches the shaft of leeks. Leek Can be direct seeded after risk of frost. As leek grow be sure to hoe the soil up around the plants during the season to blanch the shaft.

COMPANION PLANTING FOR LEEK:
Leeks do well with bush bean, beet, carrot, celery, garlic, onion, parsley, tomato.

CARE & GROWING OF LEEK:
Leeks prefer full sun and a soil pH of 6.0-6.5. Leek are moderate feeders and require very deep, rich soil. Add compost and well rotted manure prior to planting leek. Use mulch to conserve moisture and to keep the weeds down. Good soil moisture helps to keep the leek stems tender and juicy. Water during dry spells.

HARVESTING LEEK:
Harvest leek in late summer or early fall before frost. The leek shafts should be 1½”-2” in diameter. Mulch with straw if frost threatens.

How to Grow Kohlrabi

PLANT TYPE: Annual
SCIENTIFIC NAME: Brassica oleracea var gongylodes
LIGHT: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Well-drained, high organic matter
pH RANGE: 6.0 - 7.0
MOISTURE/WATERING: Average
MATURITY IN DAYS: 65 - 75
KNOWN PESTS: Cabbage worms and loopers, root maggots, aphids and Diamondback moths
KNOWN DISEASES: Head rot and downy mildew


OVERVIEW:
Kohlrabi has edible purple or white globes that form at the base of the stems. Kohlrabi is an easy crop to grow. Kohlrabi require cool temperatures and plenty of moisture and sunshine. Since kohlrabi is a cool-weather crop, most gardeners plant it in late winter or early spring and again in the late summer or early fall in order to get two crops a year. Kohlrabi is good for eating raw or cooked. Kohlrabi grow quickly, going from seed to table in 60 to 65 days.

PROPAGATION / SOWING OF KOHLRABI:
Sow kohlrabi seed 1/4-1/2” deep early in the spring once the soil has warmed to 10-18°C (50-65°F). Thin kohlrabi plants to 4” apart in rows spaced 12-18” apart.

COMPANION PLANTING OF KOHLRABI:
Kohlrabi do well with bush bean, beet, celery, cucumbers, lettuce, onion, potato, tomato.

CARE & GROWING OF KOHLRABI:
Choose an area with full sun and soil pH of 6.0-7.0. Enrich the soil with compost or well rotted manure. Kohlrabi benefits from additional feedings of liquid fertilizer during the growing season.

HARVESTING OF KOHLRABI:
For fresh use,pull kohlrabi plants when the stem has swollen to 2” in diameter. For storage, allow the kohlrabi stems to grow up to 4-5” in diameter. Clean or trim leaves. Kohlrabi stores well in the fridge or cold room.